
Make an informed decision about which custom suits you design. The phrase custom suits is a blanket term that applies to both bespoke and made to measure. Understanding the difference between the two will clarify what you are getting and help to determine which option is the right for you.
A made to measure suit is assembled from a standardized pattern in which a tailor can adjust to fit the client. The pattern is predesigned although it is not a garment that is ready to wear. A made to measure suit excels in comfort and fit when compared to an off the rack suit because of the ability to adjust the pattern in specific areas of the suit. Each MTM company will differ in the options for where the pattern can be adjusted.
Made to measure suits will offer fabric from a selection of mills specific to the MTM company. The choice in mills are contingent upon the designers specifications for the suit you’re buying. There are no limitations on which fabric you can choose from these mills but the quality of fabric you’re getting will reflect the price you pay for the suit. Keep in mind that there are different levels of quality in the mills that are available.

Made to measure suits offer a set of custom features to choose from that can enhance the originality of the suit. Included in the list are the style of pocket, number of buttons used for the jacket, the type of vent, the option for pant cuffs and pleats.
There may be additional options available such as the interior lining of the jacket, stitching, button holes, and lapel width. These options will vary with each made to measure company regarding how many options are provided to adjust the pattern. It will also depend on the tailor regarding how much detail they want to offer in adjusting custom features.
The process for assembling a made to measure suit is much faster than that of a bespoke suit. There is a fitting for the initial measurements to be taken and then a fitting when the suit is assembled. Final adjustments are made when the suit first returns from assembly. In most cases MTM suits include two fittings in the entire process. The time it takes to have a suit made can take anywhere from two to four weeks.

There is no predesigned pattern for a bespoke suit. The tailor will draw up the blueprints to the suit and create the pattern according to more detailed measurements of the client. Each component is built to match the clients body so there is more attention given to details that adjust for unique characteristics of your body.
When making a suit bespoke, the options for fabric are limitless. You have the choice of any mill in the world to select your fabric. Your tailor will provide books of fabric for every mill they have available. The prices for the fabric each mill offers can vary greatly changing the price of your bespoke suit dramatically. Some of the more famous Italian mills include Loro Piana, Vitale Barberis Canonico and Lanificio Ermenegildo Zegna.
The features you can choose to include in a bespoke suit are only as limited as to what you can imagine or as to what your tailor can suggest. The sky is the limit when it comes to choosing what can be customized in building your ensemble.
Standard selections will include the lapel, collar, cuffs, vents, button holes, buttons, jacket lining, pocket styles, sizes and location. Whatever you can imagine building into your suit can be done if it is physically possible. Hidden pockets, embroidered initials, contrasting colours, personalized linings are only to name a few of the possibilities you have.
The comfort of a suit made bespoke is what sets it apart from all other suits. It is in the process of how it is made where a tailor can spend the extra time to be more detail oriented in adjusting the garment to the body.

There are at least four fittings during the assembly, the first being known as the basting fitting. The basting fitting is when the bare bones of the suit are held together with basting thread and adjustments are made to the canvas to account for movement. At each fitting that follows the tailor will make adjustments built on top of the previous adjustments creating a fit more detailed to the body each time. This is a standout feature of the process that makes the suit a superior fit to any other style.
The entire process from designing the components to the final fitting can take 8-12 weeks before the suit is delivered.
What are the benefits of custom suits?
Create your own style
A suit should compliment a mans body. Off the rack suits are mass produced which forces a man to be fitted to the suit. Custom suits are fitted to the man. They allow a personalized fit to adjust for characteristics that are unique to each person. A good tailor will take into account any imperfections in aesthetic symmetry and make the necessary changes to hide those features and promote the qualities that enhance a mans frame.
The option to choose features creates opportunity to set yourself apart from the masses. Custom made suits offer the ability to select the best features from every suit you have seen and include them in your own design.
Comfort
There’s no other match to comfort than that of a custom fit suit. Whether you’re posing for pictures on your wedding day or working late in the office, the comfort afforded in a tailored suit is priceless. Having a suit fit the specifications of your body means a more relaxed day which will contribute to a better mood and more confidence. A garment that is adjusted to fit the personal needs of an individual fits better than an off the rack suit that is made for the masses.
Quality
When you design a custom made suit you can choose fabric to make a higher quality suit. You can select the fabric that will extend the life of your suit, look sharper and feel better. You can make these selections according to your individual tastes. Every aspect of a custom tailored suit can be improved to meet your standard of quality.